problema con triumph tiger 1050 2008... AYUDA POR FAVOR

[Metroid]

cuando das contacto, tu oyes el silvido de la bomba de combustible??

[Metroid]

los inyectores estan conectados??tienen un conector, que como te lo hayas dejado sin conectar no van a inyectar

[Opera]

Se encienden los faros?, las luces?
Has probado el sensor del embrague?
Has mirado los fusibles?

A ver si el regulador está dando por el saco o la batería.

[carlos2013]

los inyectores estan conectados??tienen un conector, que como te lo hayas dejado sin conectar no van a inyectar

si escucho el silbido de la bomba de gasolina, y cuando quito el tubo tira el chorro de gasolina, los inyectores estan conectado,..

como puedo revisar el tps?

Se encienden los faros?, las luces? R: si encienden!
Has probado el sensor del embrague? si , porq apreto el embrague es cuando la moto da arranque

Has mirado los fusibles? si todos los fusibles estan buenos

[Opera]

El motor de arranque hace intento de arrancar?
Comprobaste la batería?

si no hace intento de arrancar podría ser el sensor de la pata de cabra?

[Opera]

El motor de arranque hace intento de arrancar?
Comprobaste la batería?

si no hace intento de arrancar podría ser el sensor de la pata de cabra?

esas cuestiones quedaron aclaradas y contestadas en las 2 priemras páginas del hilo..no repitamos las preguntas y los pasos, antes de escribir por escribir, leed, todos los comentarios...más que nada, por evitar calentones de cabeza al compañero

Pues no veo donde se contestan esas preguntas.

[knACk]

Yo aun estoy esperando respuestas a preguntas echas, evidentemente como siempre si no responde a lo que se le pregunta paso de seguir.

[Humphrey]

También tenéis que tener en cuenta el cambio horario, que el compañero no está conectado a las mismas horas que nosotros...

[Hyde]

Yo pienso que se ha dejado algo sin conectar o parecido.

Fijate en este enlace de desmonte de el tanque de combustible que viene paso a paso a ver si te has dejado algo sin hacer

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost ... tcount=300


PD.: quizá te pida que te registres para poder ver la página con las fotos...

OK this will be a pictorial how-to on the 12,000 mile service for the Tiger 1050. This is really the first "big" service in that you pretty much have to do everything in the maintenance chart all at once.



First, a list of tools you'll need to accomplish this service:



-Triumph Service Manual (indispensable).

-3/8" drive ratchet with various length extensions.

-1/4" drive ratchet with various length extensions.

-Allen keys/sockets - I suggest you buy both an Allen 3/8" drive socket set and also a good set of metric Allen keys. There are a lot of Allen bolts on the bike and some you can get with a socket/ratchet, some you can only get with an Allen key. A range of roughly 3mm to 10mm is good, I don't think I've run across anything less than 4mm yet or bigger than 8mm.

-5mm Allen socket.

-8mm socket.

-10mm socket.

-10mm wrench.

-T30 Torx socket.

-6mm Allen socket & key.

-Feeler gauges covering at least 0.10mm - 0.30mm.

-Spark plug gapper or feeler gauge of 0.7mm.

-5/8" or 16mm spark plug socket.

-Torque wrench in Nm.

-13mm socket.

-Pliers.

-Shop towels.

-Oil filter wrench.

-Oil drain pan (at least 4 qt. capacity).

-Funnel.

-8mm wrench.

-Brake bleeding kit (could be as simple as a piece of plastic tubing ending in an old brake fluid container).

-Phillips screwdriver.

-Short flat-head screwdriver.

-DealerTool interface & computer (or Triumph official service tool).



Supplies needed:

-Oil filter.

-Crush washer (for oil drain plug).

-4 quarts Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 synthetic oil.

-3 spark plugs NGK CR9EK.

-Air filter.

-DOT 4 brake fluid.



You might as well do the valve clearance check first as you have to take everything apart to get in there anyway and you can do some of the other things while it's all apart. Another reason for doing the valve adjustment first is that the engine must be stone cold (as in not run overnight) when doing the check or else your results will be off.



So first thing is to start disassembling the bodywork. The service manual walks you through the proper order but I'll give you photos.



First, you need to remove the seat and set it aside.



Next, remove the black plastic side panels on each side of the bike. All the bodywork is secured by 5mm Allen screws. The black side panels have three fixing points each:







Once you remove the three screws, there is also a rubber grommet that the front edge of the side panel presses into. Pull the painted panel out a bit (side fairing in Triumph terminology) so you can pull the side panel out of the grommet. Then set the side panel together with its screws somewhere out of the way where you won't step on it. Repeat for the right side.



Then you will have this:







Next, you have to remove what Triumph calls the "fairing infill panels." These are the small black panels between the cockpit fairing and the side fairings which hold the front turn signals. There are 3 5mm Allen screws holding each one on:







After removing the screws, pull the panel off and then disconnect the turn signal wiring. There are 2 connectors for each, just grab the plugs and pull them apart (make sure to grab the plugs and not the wires). Then set aside the infill panels & screws where you won't step on them.







Next, remove the two "radiator infill panels," as Triumph calls them. There are two 5mm Allen screws that hold each one on. If you have the SW_Motech crash bars as I do, you can get these off with crash bars in place, it just requires a little bit of manipulation to get them to slide out.







Now you're ready to remove the side fairings. There are 2 remaining 5mm Allen screws holding them in place:







After removing the 2 screws, there is a loop toward the bottom of the side fairing that holds it in place. So you have to kind of slide the side fairing forward to clear it from the loop, then pull it off the bike. Repeat for the other side and then put both the side fairings aside.



Now you are looking at this:







Next, you have to remove the cockpit infill panels. These are the black panels that are adjacent to the instrument cluster on each side. No screws hold these in, they are secured by 2 rubber grommets. Just pull them straight to the rear to remove and put them aside. Note: if you have the Triumph heated grips, the switch is mounted in the left cockpit infill panel. It's frankly easier to disengage it from the grommets, pull up a bit to get the slack in the wiring, and turn the thing 90 degrees and let it sit there than it is to futz with disconnecting the wiring from the switch.



Now you are ready to remove the fuel tank. There are 3 mounting points for the fuel tank - 2 8mm bolts at the rear and 1 at the front:











After removing the bolts, you then need to undo the fuel and electrical connections on the bottom of the tank. There is the quick-release fuel connector, the fuel pump electrical connector, the fuel gauge electrical connector, and two vent hoses. To remove these items, lift up the rear of the tank and take a look at what you've got. The fuel connector is the big black and orange one pushed on to the white spigot from the tank:







The orange part is a safety catch to ensure that the quick-release connector can't come apart by accident. You slide that over and then have access to the two squeeze tabs on the black part. Squeeze those together and carefully slide the whole thing off the spigot. I say "carefully" because the spigot is plastic and you don't want to break it off. The quick-release system is self-sealing - a few drops of gas will dribble out but that's it. If you break the spigot off, though, the entire contents of your tank will be coming out.



In the next photo you can see one of the quick-release squeeze tabs:







The electrical connectors are removed by simply squeezing the tab on the ends of the connectors and pulling them off their terminals. The 2 vent hoses are found on the left side of the tank; they just pull straight off. On mine, the one on the rearmost post was marked with a white dot. Just remember which goes where (or make a note or mark the hoses) so you can remember where they go when putting it back together. Also note that one of the electrical connectors has an orange plug and one has a black plug. Note which one goes where as they are identical plugs aside from the color.



After disconnecting all those things, lift the tank off and set it aside.



You will then see this view:







That big black plastic box staring at you is the airbox and it's the next thing you have to remove.







The electrical device on the top closest to the center is the intake air temperature sensor. The one closer to the left side is the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. Disconnect the electrical connectors for each one. The temp sensor connector has a metal spring clip that you press in and then pull off the connector. The MAP sensor just has a tab you push down, then pull off the connector.



Next, pull off the hose going to the MAP sensor, visible on the left side of the airbox.







Next up, remove the 2 10mm bolts that mount the airbox to its bracket (located at the bottom of the airbox toward the rear):







That gives you a little wiggle room to disconnect the 3 hoses still attached to the airbox. You've got the airbox drain hose on the left side, the crankcase breather hose on the right side, and the secondary air injection hose at the front. All the hoses are held on by the 3-tab style spring clips, so get out your pliers and remove the hoses.















Once you get the 3 hoses loose, also make sure to free the air injection pump from the tang on the front of the airbox (see last photo above), then give the box a good upward tug to free it from the throttle bodies. Then set it aside. You are now looking at this:







Next you need to remove the secondary air injection pump and hoses. The service manual tells you to remove the pump first and then the hoses from the cam cover, but I figure why not just remove it all as one unit? To remove the air injection pump, first follow the wiring from the right side of the pump over and find the electrical connector. Disconnect it.



Next use your pliers to squeeze the 3 spring clips where the air injection hose fits onto the cam cover. Mine were stuck on there pretty good so I had to squeeze the clips with one hand while pushing the hose off with a screwdriver. Once you've got the air injection off, set it aside.



Now you can remove the ignition coils. Disconnect the electrical plugs and pull the coils straight up (gotta pull pretty hard). Set them aside.







Next step is to disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle bodies. Undo the locknut on each cable (10mm nut) while leaving the nut inside the "claw" of the throttle body in position. Spin the locknut back as far as it will go, then you can push the whole cable forward, disengage the adjuster nut from the "claw," and disengage the cable ends from the throttle. Push the cables out to the right under the frame so they'll be out of the way.







The service manual doesn't mention it, but you also have to remove the front mount for the airbox because it sits directly over one of the cam cover screws. You need a T30 Torx bit to remove it.







The front end of the bracket actually loops around the big coolant hose that runs transversely just in front of the cam cover, so you can just push it forward and it'll be out of the way.



Now you're about ready to remove the cam cover. There are 6 6mm Allen bolts that hold it in place. They have to be released in a certain sequence, shown in the photo below:







You may also wish to remove the air hoses connected to the throttle bodies (just pull off as 1 unit and set aside) and disconnect the electrical connections over the right side of the cam cover to give yourself some more room. After releasing the cam cover bolts, pull them out and set them aside. The 4 left ones are interchangeable but the two on the right side are different.



Now you have to get the cam cover off. You probably first have to break the gasket loose. I was able to break it loose by tugging upward on the air injection nozzles which stick out to the front of the cam cover. DO NOT use a screwdriver or other lever to try and pry it loose, you will damage the sealing surface and it will forever leak oil.



Once you break the gasket loose, the tricky part is trying to figure out how to get it out. If you like puzzles, this is your kinda thing. For me, it was a huge pain. The manual says to move it out through the left side. If you have ABS, this will be tricky as there are 2 hard brake lines to the ABS pump that run through the are where you need to get this out. I spent a lot of time just trying to manipulate this thing the right way to get it out and even then I couldn't really tell you exactly how I did it. But, I had to remove the bolt that holds the ABS lines to the frame in the vicinity of the steering head, then take those same lines out of a clip bolted to the inside of the frame further back. It seems that the best method, generally speaking, is to lift the front edge of the cam cover up, get it above the big coolant hose at the front of the engine, then move out out to the left, maneuvering it around coolant hoses and brake lines on the left side to just barely wiggle it out. The "claw" on the throttle bracket was a big foil to me in this process but I couldn't get a straight shot at the screws that hold it on so I didn't risk stripping them out to try and remove it. Also a pain was the wiring harness above the right side of the cam cover, but disconnecting all the plugs helped a lot. At any rate, after a lot of perseverance you will figure it out, but will be wondering how the fuck you're going to get it back in.



When you do get the cam cover out, set it upside down. There are 3 dowels in the forward edge of the cam cover, they either came out with the cam cover or they are still in the head. The dowels are pretty tightly fitted, so you don't have to worry about them falling into the engine as you remove the cam cover. Pull the spark plug tower gaskets off the head for now and put them with the cam cover. You will have this view before you:







At this point, go ahead and bust out your spark plug socket and remove all 3 spark plugs. Mine all looked good, as well they should with fuel injection and stock tune.







Once the plugs are out, engage 6th gear on the bike (if you can't get it to upshift, spin the rear wheel with clutch in a little bit and try again until you get up to 6th). Spin the rear wheel until the cam lobes for the exhaust valves on cylinder #1 (leftmost cylinder) are pointing up (they don't have to be straight up, just not on the cam follower). Get out your feeler gauges and put the gauge between the cam lobe and the cam follower. It's tricky because of the angles you have to work with, but try to get the feeler gauge as straight as possible when inserting it. Basically the exhaust valve clearance should be between 0.20mm and 0.30mm. So make sure it's not tighter than 0.2mm or looser than 0.3mm. For your records, try different feeler gauges until you find what the clearance is, then note it for future reference. When you have the right feeler gauge, it should slide in with a slight drag. It shouldn't be really loose and you shouldn't have to force it either (shhhh). Do both valves on #1 exhaust this way, then bump the rear wheel so that the camshaft for the exhaust valves on #2 is in position and so on. After finishing the exhaust, do the same for the intake except be aware that the intake spec is 0.10mm to 0.20mm.



If you have one out of spec, you're on your own at this point because all mine were in spec. The fix involves removing the appropriate camshaft and replacing the shim under the cam follower with one of an appropriate size to bring the clearance into spec.



When you're done, you might as well go ahead and put your new spark plugs in. Make sure to gap them to 0.7mm and then thread them in, tightening them to spec (12 Nm).



Assuming all your valves are in spec, time to put it back together. I re-used my cam cover gasket but I think probably next time around I will replace it and the spark plug tower gaskets just to be on the safe side. Go get your spark plug tower gaskets and put them on the spark plug towers. Note that each gasket has a cutout to clear that central rib on the cam ladder. Make sure you orient the gaskets so that the cutout is over the rib or else they won't be seated properly. Also take a moment with a shop towel and clean up the sealing surface on the head and on the cam cover so the gasket will seal well. Take a look and make sure no foreign debris has fallen into the head while you were working (hairs, dirt, etc.).



Now, when I did this, I put all the dowels into the cam cover and fitted the gasket to the cam cover, then tried to install it. That didn't work so well. Next time, I will put all dowels into the head, fit the gasket to the head, then put the cam cover in on top. If you put the gasket in the cam cover, it's just going to get knocked out when you are trying to maneuver the cam cover back in place. Before you finally place the cam cover, take time to make sure you have the gasket seated in the channel in the cam cover, else you'll have a big oil leak.



Maneuver the cam cover into place, ensure the gasket is seated properly, put the bolts back in and tighten them in the same sequence as removal to 10Nm. Before you put the bolts in, lubricate the seals they go through with a little bit of engine oil.



If you disconnected electrical connections to get the cam cover out, reconnect them at this point. Also put back the air hoses to the throttle bodies and re-attach the throttle cables. If you kept the adjuster nuts in their same positions, you shouldn't have to adjust the throttle freeplay, but double check to make sure it's correct after re-attaching the throttle cables.



Now, while you have the airbox out and off the bike, go ahead and replace the air filter. Grab the airbox and undo all the phillips screws around the perimeter and don't forget the one in the center (Triumph, WTF is with all these screws? A couple spring clips wouldn't have done the job?). When you split the airbox apart, you will see this:







Remove the old filter element and clean the inside of the airbox. It's normal for there to be a little bit of oily residue near the crankcase breather connection.



Put the new filter element in place, then reassemble the airbox. Old filter vs. new filter:







The next thing you want to do, considering that the airbox is still out, is balance the throttle bodies. So bust out your DealerTool interface and laptop. Grab the wiring harness connector for the MAP sensor as well as the MAP sensor hose and lay them off to the left side of the bike so they are outside the frame. Leave the airbox off but go grab your fuel tank and place it back on the bike without bolting it down. Re-connect the fuel and 2 electrical connections at the bottom of the tank.







You can fire the engine up at this point and it will run but as I found out, if you use DealerTool and go to the throttle balance screen, you will not get a reading because the MAP sensor is disconnected and that's where the reading comes from. So grab your T30 Torx, remove the MAP sensor from the airbox, and connect it to the MAP sensor hose and electrical connection that are hanging off the left side of the bike:







Now start the engine (which sounds pretty badass when the airbox is off ), fire up DealerTool, and navigate to the throttle balancing screen. You will get a readout of the vacuum in Kpa and it will tell you at the bottom of the screen if the throttles are balanced or need adjustment. If they are balanced, then do nothing. If it says to Adjust, then get your short flat-blade screwdriver and turn the appropriate adjuster screws to bring them into balance. These are the adjusting screws:







Take your time and make small adjustments and allow for the changes to register on the screen before proceeding. When you get it right, it will tell you you are "Balanced" and at that point you're good to go.











Once you've got the throttle bodies balanced, shut the engine off, remove the DealerTool & computer, remove the tank again, and put the secondary air injection and airbox back on. Make sure you've got all hoses properly connected to the airbox, make sure you've got the sensor wiring connected, make sure you bolt it back to its bracket and make sure the airbox is seated on the throttle bodies. Now put the tank back on, connect the fuel, electrical, and vent hoses, then bolt it down.



I should mention at this point that if you do start the bike with the airbox off and certain sensors disconnected, you will store fault codes in the ECU and the "check engine" light will come on in the instrument cluster. If you have DealerTool, you can simply clear the fault codes when you're done working and as long as you don't start the engine again until after plugging everything back in, you won't throw more fault codes. If you don't have DealerTool, you won't have a way to clear the fault codes, but if the problem that caused the code to be thrown goes away (i.e. now that the sensor is plugged back in the ECU realizes everything is fine) then the check engine light will go out on its own after a few ignition key cycles even though the code itself will remain stored in memory until it's cleared by someone with a scan tool.



At this point, you can pretty much go ahead and reassemble the bike, including plastics. Everything goes back on in the reverse order of removal. There are a couple notes though. When re-installing the front turn signals, the power wire is different colors on the bike harness than it is on the turn signal. Just match the black wire to black wire and then connect the other one.



Also, when reinstalling the cockpit infill panels and side fairings, make sure that the little lip on the cockpit infill panel overlaps the side fairing and cockpit fairing, or else you will have a weird gap there.







If you made any adjustments to the throttle bodies, you will want to force adaptation for the ECU. This will basically reset the existing ECU adaptation settings and get the ECU into learning mode again. The way you do this is start the bike and DO NOT touch the throttle. Let it idle until the cooling fan comes on, then let it idle for 13 minutes more without touching the throttle. After that, shut the engine down. Then go ride like you normally would.



The rest of the 12K service is pretty much n00b's play but I'll touch on it here.

After adjusting throttle balance, the engine is probably nice and warmed up. Perfect time to conduct your oil change. You want the oil to be warm but not so hot that it'll scald you when you drop the drain plug.



Get the bike up level (the center stand is great for this) and on a level surface. Have a look underneath the engine.







Put your oil drain pan under the drain plug, break out your 13mm socket and crack the drain plug loose. Spin it out by hand and try not to drop it into the oil when the hot oil starts to drip on your hand.



Clean the drain plug up with your shop towels, pull the old crush washer off and put the new one on.



After the torrent of oil has dwindled somewhat, go ahead and spin off the oil filter. You can buy the fancy Triumph oil filter wrench for $$$ or you can take your new oil filter down to AutoZone and find a $2 oil filter wrench that attaches to a 3/8" drive ratchet which will do the trick.



Undo the oil filter which will drip more hot oil on you. When you spin it off, turn it over so it dumps into the drain pan as it will be full of oil.



After the draining has been completed, wipe off the oil filter sealing surface with a shop towel. Grab your new filter, put a little bit of fresh oil around the rubber seal, and spin it into place. Get it as tight as you can by hand but don't use the wrench to tighten it, that's bad form.



Then insert your drain plug with new crush washer and torque it to 25 Nm.



Now go topside, remove the dipstick, and break out your funnel. Triumph claims the capacity of the sump for an oil/filter change is 3.2 liters, which is 3.4 U.S. quarts. So I say put 3.5 quarts in and check it. Check the level by inserting dipstick, screwing it down, then pulling it back out. If it reads to the top of the crosshatched area, go ahead and start the engine and let it run for a few minutes while you check for leaks from the oil filter and drain plug (also check to make sure the oil pressure light goes out upon starting).



Shut the engine down, let it sit for a few minutes, then check the oil level again - pull dipstick out, wipe, insert, screw down, pull back out, check. If it's at the top of the crosshatched area you're good. If it's under, top it up a bit. If it's a little over, nothing to worry about, it will burn off the excess and you'll be fine. If it's WAY over, you'll have to drain some out. But unless you managed to somehow dump an extra quart in there that shouldn't be an issue.



That pretty much covers the 12K. The rest is pretty much all checking things for leaks and freeplay (see service manual for maintenance chart). As part of the 12K service you are supposed to replace the coolant but I did that back at the 6K service so I'll do it again at 18K.



The only other major thing that was called for but that I didn't do was to lubricate the steering head bearings. I was going to, but I just could not get the front wheel spindle to break loose. I'll try another time I guess. I did check the steering head bearings for play and smooth operation and they are fine in that regard.



I did change the brake fluid, front and rear, which is supposed to be done every 2 years. I'm coming up on 2 years in November, but I went ahead and did it now because it's warm now.



Hope somebody finds this crap helpful.



Oh I guess I should mention the bike is running schweeeeet now with new plugs, air filter, and balanced throttle bodies. Smooooth and seems to have snappier throttle response as well (maybe a little too snappy for 1st/2nd gear work -- gonna have to get used to that again). The vibes around 5K seem to have gone away too.

[carlos2013]

También tenéis que tener en cuenta el cambio horario, que el compañero no está conectado a las mismas horas que nosotros...

exacto amigo aqui tenemos varias horas de diferencia,

[carlos2013]

Yo pienso que se ha dejado algo sin conectar o parecido.

Fijate en este enlace de desmonte de el tanque de combustible que viene paso a paso a ver si te has dejado algo sin hacer

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost ... tcount=300


PD.: quizá te pida que te registres para poder ver la página con las fotos...

OK this will be a pictorial how-to on the 12,000 mile service for the Tiger 1050. This is really the first "big" service in that you pretty much have to do everything in the maintenance chart all at once.



First, a list of tools you'll need to accomplish this service:



-Triumph Service Manual (indispensable).

-3/8" drive ratchet with various length extensions.

-1/4" drive ratchet with various length extensions.

-Allen keys/sockets - I suggest you buy both an Allen 3/8" drive socket set and also a good set of metric Allen keys. There are a lot of Allen bolts on the bike and some you can get with a socket/ratchet, some you can only get with an Allen key. A range of roughly 3mm to 10mm is good, I don't think I've run across anything less than 4mm yet or bigger than 8mm.

-5mm Allen socket.

-8mm socket.

-10mm socket.

-10mm wrench.

-T30 Torx socket.

-6mm Allen socket & key.

-Feeler gauges covering at least 0.10mm - 0.30mm.

-Spark plug gapper or feeler gauge of 0.7mm.

-5/8" or 16mm spark plug socket.

-Torque wrench in Nm.

-13mm socket.

-Pliers.

-Shop towels.

-Oil filter wrench.

-Oil drain pan (at least 4 qt. capacity).

-Funnel.

-8mm wrench.

-Brake bleeding kit (could be as simple as a piece of plastic tubing ending in an old brake fluid container).

-Phillips screwdriver.

-Short flat-head screwdriver.

-DealerTool interface & computer (or Triumph official service tool).



Supplies needed:

-Oil filter.

-Crush washer (for oil drain plug).

-4 quarts Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 synthetic oil.

-3 spark plugs NGK CR9EK.

-Air filter.

-DOT 4 brake fluid.



You might as well do the valve clearance check first as you have to take everything apart to get in there anyway and you can do some of the other things while it's all apart. Another reason for doing the valve adjustment first is that the engine must be stone cold (as in not run overnight) when doing the check or else your results will be off.



So first thing is to start disassembling the bodywork. The service manual walks you through the proper order but I'll give you photos.



First, you need to remove the seat and set it aside.



Next, remove the black plastic side panels on each side of the bike. All the bodywork is secured by 5mm Allen screws. The black side panels have three fixing points each:







Once you remove the three screws, there is also a rubber grommet that the front edge of the side panel presses into. Pull the painted panel out a bit (side fairing in Triumph terminology) so you can pull the side panel out of the grommet. Then set the side panel together with its screws somewhere out of the way where you won't step on it. Repeat for the right side.



Then you will have this:







Next, you have to remove what Triumph calls the "fairing infill panels." These are the small black panels between the cockpit fairing and the side fairings which hold the front turn signals. There are 3 5mm Allen screws holding each one on:







After removing the screws, pull the panel off and then disconnect the turn signal wiring. There are 2 connectors for each, just grab the plugs and pull them apart (make sure to grab the plugs and not the wires). Then set aside the infill panels & screws where you won't step on them.







Next, remove the two "radiator infill panels," as Triumph calls them. There are two 5mm Allen screws that hold each one on. If you have the SW_Motech crash bars as I do, you can get these off with crash bars in place, it just requires a little bit of manipulation to get them to slide out.







Now you're ready to remove the side fairings. There are 2 remaining 5mm Allen screws holding them in place:







After removing the 2 screws, there is a loop toward the bottom of the side fairing that holds it in place. So you have to kind of slide the side fairing forward to clear it from the loop, then pull it off the bike. Repeat for the other side and then put both the side fairings aside.



Now you are looking at this:







Next, you have to remove the cockpit infill panels. These are the black panels that are adjacent to the instrument cluster on each side. No screws hold these in, they are secured by 2 rubber grommets. Just pull them straight to the rear to remove and put them aside. Note: if you have the Triumph heated grips, the switch is mounted in the left cockpit infill panel. It's frankly easier to disengage it from the grommets, pull up a bit to get the slack in the wiring, and turn the thing 90 degrees and let it sit there than it is to futz with disconnecting the wiring from the switch.



Now you are ready to remove the fuel tank. There are 3 mounting points for the fuel tank - 2 8mm bolts at the rear and 1 at the front:











After removing the bolts, you then need to undo the fuel and electrical connections on the bottom of the tank. There is the quick-release fuel connector, the fuel pump electrical connector, the fuel gauge electrical connector, and two vent hoses. To remove these items, lift up the rear of the tank and take a look at what you've got. The fuel connector is the big black and orange one pushed on to the white spigot from the tank:







The orange part is a safety catch to ensure that the quick-release connector can't come apart by accident. You slide that over and then have access to the two squeeze tabs on the black part. Squeeze those together and carefully slide the whole thing off the spigot. I say "carefully" because the spigot is plastic and you don't want to break it off. The quick-release system is self-sealing - a few drops of gas will dribble out but that's it. If you break the spigot off, though, the entire contents of your tank will be coming out.



In the next photo you can see one of the quick-release squeeze tabs:







The electrical connectors are removed by simply squeezing the tab on the ends of the connectors and pulling them off their terminals. The 2 vent hoses are found on the left side of the tank; they just pull straight off. On mine, the one on the rearmost post was marked with a white dot. Just remember which goes where (or make a note or mark the hoses) so you can remember where they go when putting it back together. Also note that one of the electrical connectors has an orange plug and one has a black plug. Note which one goes where as they are identical plugs aside from the color.



After disconnecting all those things, lift the tank off and set it aside.



You will then see this view:







That big black plastic box staring at you is the airbox and it's the next thing you have to remove.







The electrical device on the top closest to the center is the intake air temperature sensor. The one closer to the left side is the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. Disconnect the electrical connectors for each one. The temp sensor connector has a metal spring clip that you press in and then pull off the connector. The MAP sensor just has a tab you push down, then pull off the connector.



Next, pull off the hose going to the MAP sensor, visible on the left side of the airbox.







Next up, remove the 2 10mm bolts that mount the airbox to its bracket (located at the bottom of the airbox toward the rear):







That gives you a little wiggle room to disconnect the 3 hoses still attached to the airbox. You've got the airbox drain hose on the left side, the crankcase breather hose on the right side, and the secondary air injection hose at the front. All the hoses are held on by the 3-tab style spring clips, so get out your pliers and remove the hoses.















Once you get the 3 hoses loose, also make sure to free the air injection pump from the tang on the front of the airbox (see last photo above), then give the box a good upward tug to free it from the throttle bodies. Then set it aside. You are now looking at this:







Next you need to remove the secondary air injection pump and hoses. The service manual tells you to remove the pump first and then the hoses from the cam cover, but I figure why not just remove it all as one unit? To remove the air injection pump, first follow the wiring from the right side of the pump over and find the electrical connector. Disconnect it.



Next use your pliers to squeeze the 3 spring clips where the air injection hose fits onto the cam cover. Mine were stuck on there pretty good so I had to squeeze the clips with one hand while pushing the hose off with a screwdriver. Once you've got the air injection off, set it aside.



Now you can remove the ignition coils. Disconnect the electrical plugs and pull the coils straight up (gotta pull pretty hard). Set them aside.







Next step is to disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle bodies. Undo the locknut on each cable (10mm nut) while leaving the nut inside the "claw" of the throttle body in position. Spin the locknut back as far as it will go, then you can push the whole cable forward, disengage the adjuster nut from the "claw," and disengage the cable ends from the throttle. Push the cables out to the right under the frame so they'll be out of the way.







The service manual doesn't mention it, but you also have to remove the front mount for the airbox because it sits directly over one of the cam cover screws. You need a T30 Torx bit to remove it.







The front end of the bracket actually loops around the big coolant hose that runs transversely just in front of the cam cover, so you can just push it forward and it'll be out of the way.



Now you're about ready to remove the cam cover. There are 6 6mm Allen bolts that hold it in place. They have to be released in a certain sequence, shown in the photo below:







You may also wish to remove the air hoses connected to the throttle bodies (just pull off as 1 unit and set aside) and disconnect the electrical connections over the right side of the cam cover to give yourself some more room. After releasing the cam cover bolts, pull them out and set them aside. The 4 left ones are interchangeable but the two on the right side are different.



Now you have to get the cam cover off. You probably first have to break the gasket loose. I was able to break it loose by tugging upward on the air injection nozzles which stick out to the front of the cam cover. DO NOT use a screwdriver or other lever to try and pry it loose, you will damage the sealing surface and it will forever leak oil.



Once you break the gasket loose, the tricky part is trying to figure out how to get it out. If you like puzzles, this is your kinda thing. For me, it was a huge pain. The manual says to move it out through the left side. If you have ABS, this will be tricky as there are 2 hard brake lines to the ABS pump that run through the are where you need to get this out. I spent a lot of time just trying to manipulate this thing the right way to get it out and even then I couldn't really tell you exactly how I did it. But, I had to remove the bolt that holds the ABS lines to the frame in the vicinity of the steering head, then take those same lines out of a clip bolted to the inside of the frame further back. It seems that the best method, generally speaking, is to lift the front edge of the cam cover up, get it above the big coolant hose at the front of the engine, then move out out to the left, maneuvering it around coolant hoses and brake lines on the left side to just barely wiggle it out. The "claw" on the throttle bracket was a big foil to me in this process but I couldn't get a straight shot at the screws that hold it on so I didn't risk stripping them out to try and remove it. Also a pain was the wiring harness above the right side of the cam cover, but disconnecting all the plugs helped a lot. At any rate, after a lot of perseverance you will figure it out, but will be wondering how the fuck you're going to get it back in.



When you do get the cam cover out, set it upside down. There are 3 dowels in the forward edge of the cam cover, they either came out with the cam cover or they are still in the head. The dowels are pretty tightly fitted, so you don't have to worry about them falling into the engine as you remove the cam cover. Pull the spark plug tower gaskets off the head for now and put them with the cam cover. You will have this view before you:







At this point, go ahead and bust out your spark plug socket and remove all 3 spark plugs. Mine all looked good, as well they should with fuel injection and stock tune.







Once the plugs are out, engage 6th gear on the bike (if you can't get it to upshift, spin the rear wheel with clutch in a little bit and try again until you get up to 6th). Spin the rear wheel until the cam lobes for the exhaust valves on cylinder #1 (leftmost cylinder) are pointing up (they don't have to be straight up, just not on the cam follower). Get out your feeler gauges and put the gauge between the cam lobe and the cam follower. It's tricky because of the angles you have to work with, but try to get the feeler gauge as straight as possible when inserting it. Basically the exhaust valve clearance should be between 0.20mm and 0.30mm. So make sure it's not tighter than 0.2mm or looser than 0.3mm. For your records, try different feeler gauges until you find what the clearance is, then note it for future reference. When you have the right feeler gauge, it should slide in with a slight drag. It shouldn't be really loose and you shouldn't have to force it either (shhhh). Do both valves on #1 exhaust this way, then bump the rear wheel so that the camshaft for the exhaust valves on #2 is in position and so on. After finishing the exhaust, do the same for the intake except be aware that the intake spec is 0.10mm to 0.20mm.



If you have one out of spec, you're on your own at this point because all mine were in spec. The fix involves removing the appropriate camshaft and replacing the shim under the cam follower with one of an appropriate size to bring the clearance into spec.



When you're done, you might as well go ahead and put your new spark plugs in. Make sure to gap them to 0.7mm and then thread them in, tightening them to spec (12 Nm).



Assuming all your valves are in spec, time to put it back together. I re-used my cam cover gasket but I think probably next time around I will replace it and the spark plug tower gaskets just to be on the safe side. Go get your spark plug tower gaskets and put them on the spark plug towers. Note that each gasket has a cutout to clear that central rib on the cam ladder. Make sure you orient the gaskets so that the cutout is over the rib or else they won't be seated properly. Also take a moment with a shop towel and clean up the sealing surface on the head and on the cam cover so the gasket will seal well. Take a look and make sure no foreign debris has fallen into the head while you were working (hairs, dirt, etc.).



Now, when I did this, I put all the dowels into the cam cover and fitted the gasket to the cam cover, then tried to install it. That didn't work so well. Next time, I will put all dowels into the head, fit the gasket to the head, then put the cam cover in on top. If you put the gasket in the cam cover, it's just going to get knocked out when you are trying to maneuver the cam cover back in place. Before you finally place the cam cover, take time to make sure you have the gasket seated in the channel in the cam cover, else you'll have a big oil leak.



Maneuver the cam cover into place, ensure the gasket is seated properly, put the bolts back in and tighten them in the same sequence as removal to 10Nm. Before you put the bolts in, lubricate the seals they go through with a little bit of engine oil.



If you disconnected electrical connections to get the cam cover out, reconnect them at this point. Also put back the air hoses to the throttle bodies and re-attach the throttle cables. If you kept the adjuster nuts in their same positions, you shouldn't have to adjust the throttle freeplay, but double check to make sure it's correct after re-attaching the throttle cables.



Now, while you have the airbox out and off the bike, go ahead and replace the air filter. Grab the airbox and undo all the phillips screws around the perimeter and don't forget the one in the center (Triumph, WTF is with all these screws? A couple spring clips wouldn't have done the job?). When you split the airbox apart, you will see this:







Remove the old filter element and clean the inside of the airbox. It's normal for there to be a little bit of oily residue near the crankcase breather connection.



Put the new filter element in place, then reassemble the airbox. Old filter vs. new filter:







The next thing you want to do, considering that the airbox is still out, is balance the throttle bodies. So bust out your DealerTool interface and laptop. Grab the wiring harness connector for the MAP sensor as well as the MAP sensor hose and lay them off to the left side of the bike so they are outside the frame. Leave the airbox off but go grab your fuel tank and place it back on the bike without bolting it down. Re-connect the fuel and 2 electrical connections at the bottom of the tank.







You can fire the engine up at this point and it will run but as I found out, if you use DealerTool and go to the throttle balance screen, you will not get a reading because the MAP sensor is disconnected and that's where the reading comes from. So grab your T30 Torx, remove the MAP sensor from the airbox, and connect it to the MAP sensor hose and electrical connection that are hanging off the left side of the bike:







Now start the engine (which sounds pretty badass when the airbox is off ), fire up DealerTool, and navigate to the throttle balancing screen. You will get a readout of the vacuum in Kpa and it will tell you at the bottom of the screen if the throttles are balanced or need adjustment. If they are balanced, then do nothing. If it says to Adjust, then get your short flat-blade screwdriver and turn the appropriate adjuster screws to bring them into balance. These are the adjusting screws:







Take your time and make small adjustments and allow for the changes to register on the screen before proceeding. When you get it right, it will tell you you are "Balanced" and at that point you're good to go.











Once you've got the throttle bodies balanced, shut the engine off, remove the DealerTool & computer, remove the tank again, and put the secondary air injection and airbox back on. Make sure you've got all hoses properly connected to the airbox, make sure you've got the sensor wiring connected, make sure you bolt it back to its bracket and make sure the airbox is seated on the throttle bodies. Now put the tank back on, connect the fuel, electrical, and vent hoses, then bolt it down.



I should mention at this point that if you do start the bike with the airbox off and certain sensors disconnected, you will store fault codes in the ECU and the "check engine" light will come on in the instrument cluster. If you have DealerTool, you can simply clear the fault codes when you're done working and as long as you don't start the engine again until after plugging everything back in, you won't throw more fault codes. If you don't have DealerTool, you won't have a way to clear the fault codes, but if the problem that caused the code to be thrown goes away (i.e. now that the sensor is plugged back in the ECU realizes everything is fine) then the check engine light will go out on its own after a few ignition key cycles even though the code itself will remain stored in memory until it's cleared by someone with a scan tool.



At this point, you can pretty much go ahead and reassemble the bike, including plastics. Everything goes back on in the reverse order of removal. There are a couple notes though. When re-installing the front turn signals, the power wire is different colors on the bike harness than it is on the turn signal. Just match the black wire to black wire and then connect the other one.



Also, when reinstalling the cockpit infill panels and side fairings, make sure that the little lip on the cockpit infill panel overlaps the side fairing and cockpit fairing, or else you will have a weird gap there.







If you made any adjustments to the throttle bodies, you will want to force adaptation for the ECU. This will basically reset the existing ECU adaptation settings and get the ECU into learning mode again. The way you do this is start the bike and DO NOT touch the throttle. Let it idle until the cooling fan comes on, then let it idle for 13 minutes more without touching the throttle. After that, shut the engine down. Then go ride like you normally would.



The rest of the 12K service is pretty much n00b's play but I'll touch on it here.

After adjusting throttle balance, the engine is probably nice and warmed up. Perfect time to conduct your oil change. You want the oil to be warm but not so hot that it'll scald you when you drop the drain plug.



Get the bike up level (the center stand is great for this) and on a level surface. Have a look underneath the engine.







Put your oil drain pan under the drain plug, break out your 13mm socket and crack the drain plug loose. Spin it out by hand and try not to drop it into the oil when the hot oil starts to drip on your hand.



Clean the drain plug up with your shop towels, pull the old crush washer off and put the new one on.



After the torrent of oil has dwindled somewhat, go ahead and spin off the oil filter. You can buy the fancy Triumph oil filter wrench for $$$ or you can take your new oil filter down to AutoZone and find a $2 oil filter wrench that attaches to a 3/8" drive ratchet which will do the trick.



Undo the oil filter which will drip more hot oil on you. When you spin it off, turn it over so it dumps into the drain pan as it will be full of oil.



After the draining has been completed, wipe off the oil filter sealing surface with a shop towel. Grab your new filter, put a little bit of fresh oil around the rubber seal, and spin it into place. Get it as tight as you can by hand but don't use the wrench to tighten it, that's bad form.



Then insert your drain plug with new crush washer and torque it to 25 Nm.



Now go topside, remove the dipstick, and break out your funnel. Triumph claims the capacity of the sump for an oil/filter change is 3.2 liters, which is 3.4 U.S. quarts. So I say put 3.5 quarts in and check it. Check the level by inserting dipstick, screwing it down, then pulling it back out. If it reads to the top of the crosshatched area, go ahead and start the engine and let it run for a few minutes while you check for leaks from the oil filter and drain plug (also check to make sure the oil pressure light goes out upon starting).



Shut the engine down, let it sit for a few minutes, then check the oil level again - pull dipstick out, wipe, insert, screw down, pull back out, check. If it's at the top of the crosshatched area you're good. If it's under, top it up a bit. If it's a little over, nothing to worry about, it will burn off the excess and you'll be fine. If it's WAY over, you'll have to drain some out. But unless you managed to somehow dump an extra quart in there that shouldn't be an issue.



That pretty much covers the 12K. The rest is pretty much all checking things for leaks and freeplay (see service manual for maintenance chart). As part of the 12K service you are supposed to replace the coolant but I did that back at the 6K service so I'll do it again at 18K.



The only other major thing that was called for but that I didn't do was to lubricate the steering head bearings. I was going to, but I just could not get the front wheel spindle to break loose. I'll try another time I guess. I did check the steering head bearings for play and smooth operation and they are fine in that regard.



I did change the brake fluid, front and rear, which is supposed to be done every 2 years. I'm coming up on 2 years in November, but I went ahead and did it now because it's warm now.



Hope somebody finds this crap helpful.



Oh I guess I should mention the bike is running schweeeeet now with new plugs, air filter, and balanced throttle bodies. Smooooth and seems to have snappier throttle response as well (maybe a little too snappy for 1st/2nd gear work -- gonna have to get used to that again). The vibes around 5K seem to have gone away too.

gracias amigo Hyde, pero ya me di cuenta y todo esta conectado

[carlos2013]

El motor de arranque hace intento de arrancar?
Comprobaste la batería?

si no hace intento de arrancar podría ser el sensor de la pata de cabra?

esas cuestiones quedaron aclaradas y contestadas en las 2 priemras páginas del hilo..no repitamos las preguntas y los pasos, antes de escribir por escribir, leed, todos los comentarios...más que nada, por evitar calentones de cabeza al compañero

Pues no veo donde se contestan esas preguntas.

si amigo el arranque hace intento de prender, pero la moto no enciende. la bomaba de gasolina prende tambien

[Metroid]

el TPS no influye en el arranque, simplemente afecta al ralentí y a las aperturas de gas, pero para arrancar no es importante,

Yo segun lo que leo deduzco:
-La moto saca chispa , y arranca echandole gasolina, con lo que descartamos fallo electrico de bobinas, pick up, ECU y pasamos a la gestión de la gasolina
-la bomba funciona
-Los inyectores no lo sabemos


para mi , por cerrar un circulo lógico, miraria ya lo que te comentan arriba , ver si las bujias estan humedas o incluso desmontar los inyectores y ver si tiran gasolina, no sea que no les llegue bien corriente y no inyecten....

Si la moto echando gasolina directamente arranca, el unico problema que le veo es que no le llega gasolina a la cámara de combustión, y puede ser por dos cosas a forma de ver, o presión de gasolina, o problema de inyectores

[Opera]

La casualidad de todo es que falle algo de eso sólo por desmontar el depósito para pintarlo, sin que previamente hubiera alguna avería.

Compañero, aunque comentas que la moto iba perfectamente antes de desmontar el depósito, el motivo de pintarlo era totalmente estético o tuvo alguna caída?
Creo recordar que estas motos llevan un sensor de caída que para el motor si la moto se cae.

salud!!

[Metroid]

La casualidad de todo es que falle algo de eso sólo por desmontar el depósito para pintarlo, sin que previamente hubiera alguna avería.

Compañero, aunque comentas que la moto iba perfectamente antes de desmontar el depósito, el motivo de pintarlo era totalmente estético o tuvo alguna caída?
Creo recordar que estas motos llevan un sensor de caída que para el motor si la moto se cae.

salud!!

si, pero corta el encendido...con lo que no sacaria chispa, pero segun dice, si saca, así que lo descartamos

[carlos2013]

mis amigos intente con el tuneecu, primera vez que uso ese programa!!!
me salen estas fallas:



*circuito abierto o cortocircuito a tierra en el calentador del sensor de oxigeno 1
*voltaje alto en el sensor de presion absoluta del colector
*temperatura de aire de admision demasiado baja
*anomalia en el circuito del inyector 3
*anomalia de la bobina de encendido 1
*anomalia de la bobina de encendido 2
*anomalia de la bobina de encendido 3
*circuito de inyeccion de aire segundario abierto
*anomalia en el circuito del sensor del nivel de combustible
*anomalia en el sistema de la valvula de control de aire de ralenti
*voltaje de sistema, anomalia en el circuito de la bateria
*voltaje alto en el circuito del sensor de presion ambiental
*circuito abierto en el rele de la bomba de combustible
*circuito abierto o cortocuicuito a tierra del ventilador de refrigeracion
*voltaje alto en el circuito de detencion de caida
*anomalia del circuito del rele principal
*fallo de bus can

ME PUEDEN AYUDAR A RESOLVER TODO ESO??

y a que se debe cada falla

GRACIAS COMPAÑEROS

tambien tengo una imagen del tuneecu pero no se como ponerla en el temaa

[knACk]

Al ver toda esa cantidad de errores se me viene a la cabeza tres cosas por este orden deberias comprobarlo.


1º Tienes que limpiarlos apagar el contacto arrancar y comprobar y ver los reales.
2º La bateria esta echa una mierda y te esta dando fallos en todo por su culpa, cambiala y vete al paso 1º
3º La centralita se fue a tomar por culo.


Mi opinion es que pruebes cada paso si no cambia y sigue igual pasa al siguiente si cambia algo pues seguimos hablando cuando digas que cambio

En principio votaría por la batería en mal estado que seria algo más posible y menos costoso (reza )

[Opera]

Al ver toda esa cantidad de errores se me viene a la cabeza tres cosas por este orden deberias comprobarlo.


1º Tienes que limpiarlos apagar el contacto arrancar y comprobar y ver los reales.
2º La bateria esta echa una mierda y te esta dando fallos en todo por su culpa, cambiala y vete al paso 1º
3º La centralita se fue a tomar por culo.


Mi opinion es que pruebes cada paso si no cambia y sigue igual pasa al siguiente si cambia algo pues seguimos hablando cuando digas que cambio

En principio votaría por la batería en mal estado que seria algo más posible y menos costoso (reza )

Aun no nos ha dicho si ha verificado la batería!

[Metroid]

mis amigos intente con el tuneecu, primera vez que uso ese programa!!!
me salen estas fallas:



*circuito abierto o cortocircuito a tierra en el calentador del sensor de oxigeno 1
*voltaje alto en el sensor de presion absoluta del colector
*temperatura de aire de admision demasiado baja
*anomalia en el circuito del inyector 3
*anomalia de la bobina de encendido 1
*anomalia de la bobina de encendido 2
*anomalia de la bobina de encendido 3
*circuito de inyeccion de aire segundario abierto
*anomalia en el circuito del sensor del nivel de combustible
*anomalia en el sistema de la valvula de control de aire de ralenti
*voltaje de sistema, anomalia en el circuito de la bateria
*voltaje alto en el circuito del sensor de presion ambiental
*circuito abierto en el rele de la bomba de combustible
*circuito abierto o cortocuicuito a tierra del ventilador de refrigeracion
*voltaje alto en el circuito de detencion de caida
*anomalia del circuito del rele principal
*fallo de bus can

ME PUEDEN AYUDAR A RESOLVER TODO ESO??

y a que se debe cada falla

GRACIAS COMPAÑEROS

tambien tengo una imagen del tuneecu pero no se como ponerla en el temaa

El 99% de los fallos son o porque ahora mismo tienes todos esos conectores sin conectar, que es todo lo que te dijimos que repasaras, o BIEN PORQUE ANTES DE acabar de montar y conectar todo, en su momento, le diste al contacto o probaste a arrancar y se quedaron los falllos grabados.

De momento con tuneecu borra los fallos, prueba a arrancar y mira otra vez que fallos tienes y lo vuelves a poner, veremos que es lo que falla

[Metroid]

Al ver toda esa cantidad de errores se me viene a la cabeza tres cosas por este orden deberias comprobarlo.


1º Tienes que limpiarlos apagar el contacto arrancar y comprobar y ver los reales.
2º La bateria esta echa una mierda y te esta dando fallos en todo por su culpa, cambiala y vete al paso 1º
3º La centralita se fue a tomar por culo.


Mi opinion es que pruebes cada paso si no cambia y sigue igual pasa al siguiente si cambia algo pues seguimos hablando cuando digas que cambio

En principio votaría por la batería en mal estado que seria algo más posible y menos costoso (reza )

1-seguramente se quedó registrado, ya que antes de acabar de montarla, me la juego a que probó arrancar o dio contacto

2. lo de la bateria aqui no tiene nada que ver, no deja fallos registrados, simplemente no tiene fuerza para arrancar , si lña desconectas si que deja algun fallo, pero como siempre serian fallos antiguos guardados en memoria y que no afectarian ara el arranque
3.si la centralita se fuera a tomar por culo no haria el chequeo para arrancar y no haria chispa, cosa que dice que si que hace